In the middle of the Caribbean Sea, among the islands collectively referred to as the West Indies, lies Martinique. The island is an oversees department of France, referred to as a Département d’outre-mer et Région d’outre mer (DOM-ROM). The status of Martinique as both a Département (department) and a region (region) is important to the liberties enjoyed by the island people. The island’s official language in French, but they have begun to heavily promote their “Martinique Créole,” which has similar (though not identical) roots to Haitian Creole.
A Brief History of French Rule
The French royalty came to own the island of Martinique under the reign of Louis XIII, around the year 1635. Since then, control of Martinique has shuffled hands a few times with the British (specifically during Anglo-French conflicts), but now retains its official French status.
In the first two centuries, France used the island as a colony to support its mercantilist economy – exporting sugarcane, rum, and other agricultural products to Europe. Like many of the colonies in the West Indies, slavery was a central tenant of the economy and society. While the other French colony in the Caribbean (Haiti) successfully overthrew French rule and slavery in 1791, Martinique did not finally abolish slavery within its borders until 1848.
After the wake of World War II, there were an abundance of pro-independence voices coming from Martinique, as colonies around the world began to gain autonomy. These voices made significant waves in French culture and even staged some violent attempts to secure their goals. However, Martinique’s political culture swung back to a pro-French sentiment as the economy began to suffer under tension with the French government.
Martinique was, however, able to secure critical advancements in their autonomy over the years. Alongside other oversees departments, Martinique fought for their own self-governance under French rule. Today, they have a head of government who is appointed by, but not bound to, the French President. Over the last half a century, control over French DOM-ROMs around the world have become increasingly decentralized.
In 2023, the people of Martinique reaffirmed their commitment to France in a referendum on the island’s future. Simultaneously, they committed to autonomous control of internal affairs, something agreed to by the French government as well. In February, they adopted an independent activist flag, calling back to their largely African roots.
Martinique’s culture is intertwined with dance and music. On their tourism website, the country lists four central dances to the island’s culture.
Biguine, the native dance of Martinique, is the first dance style to be highlighted. It is a couple’s dance that is upbeat and focuses on hips movement and step patterns. “Two steps to the left, then two steps to the right…” is the fundamental description given to tourists.
The second is called Zouk, which is a “staple dance in the French West Indies.” Its popularity began to explode in the 1980s and is a common sight in the streets across the region. The style mixes compas (of Haitian background) and gwo ka(of Guadeloupean origin) musical genres with the native Biguine style of rhythmic dance. The music is supported by strong bass and percussion lines.
A third style of dance, named Bèlè, is a combination of dancing and singing that “reflects Martinican history.” According to the Martinique government, it is a “musical dialog[e] that draw you in.”
Mazurka, the fourth central dance type, is a couple’s dance of elegancy and rhythm. It is divided into two sections: the piqué and the nuit. The piqué is a more up-beat and lively section with three sliding steps. Following this, the nuit section slows down and is danced in a more sensual and romantic style.
You’ve likely heard of the Carnivals in Québec, New Orléans, Rio de Janeiro, and maybe even Florence. But the Martinique Carnival should be placed among the greats for its extravagant nature and deep cultural roots. The Carnival lasts for five straight days, each with new additions and a thematic meaning.
Starting of Saturday with “Samedi Gras,” the Carnival debuts with a parade of pageant queens from across the island.
Sunday brings “Dimanche Gras” which is the day on which the Vaval (the King of Carnival) makes his appearance. The figure is a satirical representation of the yearly theme, and his identity is a closely-guarded secret each year. Accompanying the Vaval, dozens of bands and music groups parade the streets with instruments, costumes, and choreography. Sunday is also the day of bradjaks, old cars painted in bright colors and satirical commercial slogans.
“Lundi Gras” arrives on Monday where satirical “burlesque weddings,” take place. In these street-side ceremonies, men and woman reverse roles and march down the streets adorned in their fanciest wedding garments. In addition, Monday is a celebration of Martinique dance and music.
Martinique’s “Mardi Gras,” is one of the biggest days of their Carnival! The red devils make their appearances on Tuesday. They travel through the crowds on the streets and spark “jubilant fear” into the children. After instilling fear, they take the crowds to the streets to host the annual vidé, or street party of Martinique culture!
The Carnival ends on Ash Wednesday with a farewell ceremony. Gatherers must dress in black and white during this ceremony and they take the streets to sing “Magré lavi-a red, Vaval ka kite nou!” (Despite the harshness of life, Vaval is preparing to leave us, [in Creole]). At the end of the closing ceremony, an effigy of Vaval is burned, and his ashes are spread across Port-de-France (the capital city).
Conclusion
Martinique is an island nature of culture, dance, and fun. Despite its storied history, the people of the island have found a love for their unique Caribbean heritage and lifestyles. The island for sure stands out as one of the most gorgeous in the world, and its cultural richness only amplifies its beauty.
Written by Kaleb Houle-Lawrence
University Intern
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